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It suits us, but life without a tether takes its toll.

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To ease the strain, we developed systems to help us resettle quickly, managing our rootlessness the way others manage a checkbook—through rules and formulas. Rule No. However, unlike most people for whom these would be hardware stores, hair salons, and farmers markets, we dial in on the Ethiopian restaurants. I fell in love with my first in Boulder, Colorado, inbut sadly, the Colorado foothills offered only one option, as did Jacksonville.

Conversely, Princeton had none, making Manhattan feel like a windfall with eight. Los Angeles, to its credit, had 10 and a Little Ethiopia district lined with banners and bunting.

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That was before Dallas. My first premove internet search turned up a handful of restaurant names. Deeper investigation unearthed a few more. The bloody genocide that followed was known worldwide as The Red Terror. For Ethiopians with mobility, the options were simple: leave now or forever rest in peace.

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Thousands fled by way of Sudan, Djibouti, Kenya, even Somalia, ultimately making their way to the United States as political refugees. Which is where organizations like Catholic Charities of Dallas and the Mutual Assistance Association for the Ethiopian Community came into the picture.

Every year, charitable resettlement organizations assess their respective situations— of staff, operating budget, resettlement resources—and estimate the of refugees their programs can support. As more were placed here, a core developed, leading to clusters and eventually communities.

Estimates on the of Ethiopians who ended up in North Texas as students, former asylees, and Diversity Visa holders vary wildly. The U. Census places the figure at a paltry 4, But Census s register low because the Ethiopian population often gets grouped under the African banner, leaving tens of thousands uned for. DFW International estimates the population at 30, Most others, they could not afford to do that.

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But I had a tractor. We did not take anything in our house. We left it—a life, our house—with everything.

The brain drain that befell Ethiopia as a result of its best and brightest fleeing and resettling has benefited our region immeasurably. Because Ethiopians have a reputation for earnest industriousness a Texas Monthly article in told a story of a refugee threatening to sue his case worker for suggesting he apply for welfaremany have rebuilt their careers here in science and technology, while also working to maintain the close-knit nature of the culture.

They will give them their telephone. They will share with them the information. Then on Sunday they come to church and they will find someone that they know for a long time—30 years ago, 40 years ago—and they become relatives.

Community stability has led to entrepreneurship, which has resulted in a rich density of restaurants clustered near that original settlement neighborhood. As for how to approach this bounty, what is true for ethnic foods in general goes double for Ethiopian cuisine: instead of limiting yourself to any single menu item, go for the smorgasbord.

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Different restaurant kitchens have reputations for bringing heat and flavor in varying degrees. On Greenville Avenue, newcomer Desta experiments with contemporary preparations and nontraditional platings. The strip of retail surrounding Lalibela illustrates the point better than any statistic.

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Betru GebregziaBher photography by Trevor Paulhus. In This Post Addis Ababa. Restaurant: Ethiopian. Richardson S. Central Expwy.

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Northeast Dallas Greenville Ave. Desta Ethiopian Restaurant. North Dallas Greenville Ave. Gojo Ethiopian Restaurant.

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Richardson E. Buckingham Rd. Oak Lawn Inwood Rd. Kereje Ethiopian Restaurant. Restaurant: Casual, Ethiopian. Northeast Dallas Forest Ln. Queen of Sheba. Addison Inwood Rd. Newsletter Keep me up to date on the latest happenings and all that D Magazine has to offer. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.